The Alentejo covers a huge area, around a third of the country, stretching south from the Rio Tejo to the northern mountain ranges of the Algarve – the name derives from the words além do Tejo, beyond the Tejo River. Parts are hilly, with slopes that are covered in an almost untouched Mediterranean undergrowth. Continuing inland, you come to the mountain ridges formed by continental collisions. Forests of oaks and pines and rocky outcrops dominate the hills, populated by large birds of prey and nocturnal carnivores. The agriculture part of Alentejo is known as Portugal’s garden, the bulk of the region given over to huge cork plantations, wheat fields and vineyards – and though much of it is flat, the region repays exploration, offering unexpected surprises, from ancient dolmens and superbly sited castles to Roman ruins and sweeping Atlantic beaches.
Towns: You can find spectacular fortified towns likeElvas and Évora(UNESCO World Heritage), whose Roman temple, medieval walls and cathedrals have put Alentejo firmly on the tourist circuit. Elsewhere in Alto Alentejo (Upper Alentejo), you’ll find the dazzling hilltop villages of Monsarazand Marvão, and the marble towns ofEstremozand Vila Viçosa, where the local marble quarries have given an opulent look to many of the buildings. South of Évora, in the plains of Baixo Alentejo (Lower Alentejo), the attractions lie further apart and can be difficult to see without a car. However, there are some good overnight targets, including the main town of Beja, as well as nearby Moura, Serpa and Mértola, all enjoyable historic towns with a wealth of accommodation.
Coast: Once south of the industrial town of Sines you’ll encounter one of the least developed coasts in Portugal, a wild, scrubby expanse of low hills and wave-pounded cliffs. Low-key resorts cluster round the various cove beaches that you can find right along the coast, including the beautiful Vila Nova de Milfontes , which attracts summer crowds, but the beaches are superb and you can reach them all by public transport. You must explore the coasts beaches of which many are ideal for surfing. You will also smell the scents of the countryside here, the aromatic herbs that season the fish, seafood and other local produce, to be accompanied by the region’s excellent wines.
Vicentina Route: But the Alentejo coastline is not only beaches. To the south of Sines, you enter the Parque Natural do Sudoeste Alentejano e Costa Vicentina, abundaned in hiking, riding and mountain bike trails to choose from. The various marked trails along the 340km which make up the Vicentina Route, between Santiago do Cacém and São Vicente Cape, are a great way to get to know the region, to come into contact with everyday life of its residents and experience the local customs and traditions....read more
When and how: Apr & May Red and yellow flowers mingle with golden plains, and it’s baby stork time! Sep & Oct Enjoy festival frenzy while missing the crowds and the heat. Jun & Jul Pre-August beaches await, plus Festas Populares, Évora’s bounciest country fair.
Getting to The Alentejo Évora is the main gateway to the Alto Alentejo, and is well connected to Lisbon by bus and train. For the Baixo Alentejo, Beja is the main gateway, and has bus and train connections to Lisbon. Along the coast, Vila Nova de Milfontes is the key gateway. Getting around The AlentejoBuses are the best way to access the region’s smaller towns and villages; the few operating train services were unreliable at the time of research. Two bus companies service the Alentejo: Rede Expressos (www.rede-expressos.pt) and the national company Rodalentejo (www.rodalentejo.pt). Both publish up-to-date bus schedules online. To get to remote places, including some mountaintop villages and the Alqueva Dam, a hiring a car is your best option.
Getting around The AlentejoBuses are the best way to access the region’s smaller towns and villages; the few operating train services were unreliable at the time of research. Two bus companies service the Alentejo: Rede Expressos (www.rede-expressos.pt) and the national company Rodalentejo (www.rodalentejo.pt). Both publish up-to-date bus schedules online. To get to remote places, including some mountaintop villages and the Alqueva Dam, a hiring a car is your best option.